MEGA-ROBOT

Day 1

So, maybe this decision is premature, but Mexico City rules. I’ve been to some cities in my time, in and out of the US. New Orleans before the hurricane, London, Upsala, LA, SF, NYC, Boston, Pittsburgh, Philly, Seattle, Addis Ababba, Providence, Charleston, Amsterdam, San Diego and Santa Cruz. As an American, I feel we have been mislead to think Mexico City is just tourism and drug violence. I was totally impressed. Not only is it incredibly clean and huge, but also the people are really cool.

The flight sucked as flights do. We were stuck with middle seats far from each other. Our second flight was more enjoyable in that I was able to sit with Meghan. We landed without incident and efficiently went through customs, caught a valid cab and took off at a speed and maneuvers that would make a NYC cabbie jealous. Someone has to make a video game out of being a cabbie in Mexico City. I loved it.

Now not all cabbies are saints in Mexico City. According to tourism guides, unregistered cabs prey on the unwary traveler and enough tourists have been kidnapped and robbed to give the city a bad rep. After a preset price, we were safely delivered to our hotel, The Galleria, located in Zona Rosa, and checked in.

Our hotel’s neighborhood, which turns out to be the gay section of town is also a party section of town. Passing several boy prostitutes we ended up in a rowdy bar area and we didn’t know which one to go to. Some bars were men only, and some were too crowded, but we did find a rooftop bar where a Doors cover band was playing in Spanish. They were amazing, but the booze selection was only Tecate light and none of us like Tecate, let alone light. I was cold and tired and marveling at where Meghan’s friend Jesse got all of her energy from, when finally we gave up on trying to find a bar and we hit 7 Eleven for vodka and mango juice. We made drinks in our room and went up to the penthouse pool to see the view. It was magnificent. The city is in a valley and the mountains were black against the lights of the metropolis. A fellow penthouse patron suggested that if we wanted to see a better view, to go up to the helicopter pad and look from there. He gave us directions and we just followed them.

Talk about vertigo! No barriers, just a spectacular view. I hate the thought of getting a trespassing ticket at this age (it gets embarrassing) but this was worth it. After taking in the view, we stumbled back down to sleep.

Day 2

It must be the high altitude, because I mostly slept like shit but luckily I awoke somewhat refreshed, and after showering we had breakfast back on the roof; yogurt, fruit, champagne and some healthy green juice (wheat grass and pineapple, I think). Service was slow, and we were eager to get going. Saturday was the only day we were able to go to El Chopo, an outdoor market dedicated to metal, punk and goth. After another harrowing cab ride, we arrived.

Wow. I was in heaven. Countless booths and countless metal heads, goths, and “postcard” punks (punks with perfect hair and a uniform look) filled the streets. Everyone looked good but I was quickly let down. Because of the death of cds and growth of mp3s, I am really into record collecting again these days and they had everything, but when I asked how much for Iron Maiden’s Sanctuary single was, the vendor told me it was 500 pesos, basically, $35 American. Assuming the inflated price was because I was not a native, chagrined, I put it back. I still enjoyed the market, highlights being a drunk metal dude singing Black Sabbath’s “War Pigs”, including guitar parts. The best part was discovering a poster advertising that Diamanda Galas was playing while we were in town. The show is in two days and I can’t wait, I’ve been into her music since 1992 and she’s been one of my most favorite vocalists ever.

After taking the most efficient subway ever (more kudos to Mexico City) we got back to the center of town and caught a pedal cab to a restaurant Jesse wanted to go to. While determining price with our pedal cab, a shaman type fellow with chicken feet hanging from his hat was blessing volunteers violently with basil not two feet away from us. We wanted to also be blessed, but we were starving and the shaman had a long line of people so we chose to go the restaurant first.

The pedal cab was just as exhilarating as the car cabs. We saw a beautiful mosaic building on the way that we later returned to for a photo shoot for the girls. The restaurant, the Opera Cantina, was beautiful but the food unimpressive. I have had issues with the food the first time I had been to Mexico, and this time was turning out the same. Off to bed early so we could get a head start on a busy day at the pyramids.

Day 3

We woke up and it was Valentine’s Day! We caught a cab driven by a nice man named Oscar to go to the pyramids but he first brought us first to a carving community outside of the pyramids where we were served a traditional Mexican meal in their kitchen. It was the best food I have had so far. After lunch we were given a tour of the agave plant and its uses; vitamins, tequila, paper, thread and a needle. I need to grow this plant! Also, we were shown their obsidian carvings, which were exquisite. Obviously we had to buy some cool stuff after the tour and just hope they survive the flight home.

Next, we visited the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon. Oscar explained some pretty important symbolism for us; parrots represented farmers, the jaguar god bugling through a conch shell brought rain. so did the winged serpent Quetzacoatl. Human sacrifice was about fertility. An artisan community does not produce crops so Teotihuacan culture failed from lack of water and laborers. When the Teotihuacan left, they filled in their pyramids with dirt and debris so no one could use them. Only 20% of the pyramids are currently visible. Oscar explained what made what original (slopes and murals) and what was reproduced (gravel inlaid between mortar.) After his quick tour, he left us to our own devices and we climbed the smaller pyramids. The Moon and Sun pyramids were crowded, and therefore not appealing to us. The ones we climbed were devoid of tourists and the girls did some cute photo shoot for their band, “Jewels Of The Nile”.

Most of the pyramids were rebuilt based on the gravel inlay, but they were still magical. We later met Oscar and I got a boiled cheese chili corn on the cob from a street vendor and drove home.

After a quick refresher, we sought out an antiques market that was already over. Other than an antique piano and an over priced ($200) robot, we sought out a French restaurant that was closed. We wandered by the U.S. embassy that looked prepared for an invasion, and found Argentinian food that was lack luster. During this unremarkable meal, our friend Ana Paula called us to hang out.

I had known Ana Paula for 15+ years. She was dating a New York tattooer friend of mine, Sean Vasquez, when we first met. We remained in contact off and on since ’95 but I had not seen her for 3 years, so finding her in our hotel lobby was a joy and she looks amazing. She has moved on from piercing to yoga and has a spark about her that makes her irresistible and lovable. She was accompanied by a smooth yoga guy, Freddy, who was easy going but spoke no English. We caught up, told funny stories and drank red wine (vino tinto). They had to leave early to wake up for a yoga teacher’s training class, but our short visit was incredibly fulfilling. 2 bottles of vino tinto down, one more to go on the roof.

The view is amazing and the conversation loosened up. We goofed around on the exercise machines and drank and talked. No one hassled us and we eventually grew sleepy. Tomorrow should be Frida Kahlo’s house, floating gardens and the creepy doll island, and Diamada Galas. Another amazing day in Mexico City.

Day 4

We had a good breakfast in a bookstore/cafe right down the street. During breakfast I started feeling hot and cold sweats, nausea and dizzy. Great. What did I do to get sick? I used bottle water for everything, including brushing my teeth. I typically get nauseous when it’s hot, but it was not hot. I attempted to go antique shopping but was afraid I would pass out in the street, so I bought 2 bottles of Gatorade and a bottle of water and went back to the hotel while the girls went to Frida’s house with Oscar.

After a three hour nap, I felt somewhat better. Maybe I was dehydrated or it was the Argentinian food last night, what do I know? I’m not a doctor. (At this point I’m convinced it was the boiled cheese chili corn on the cob from the street vendor I ate at he pyramids, stupid of me really). I went up to the pool to read my H.P. Lovecraft book but had to leave quickly because it was freezing. After a hot shower, Meghan came home. It turned out Frida’s house was closed, the gondola ride was “nice”, and the doll island was just a bunch of stuffed animals nailed to trees. I missed nothing.

I was feeling better when Oscar picked us up again and drove us to the Diamanda Galas concert. Tickets cost an appropriate six hundred and sixty six pesos, and it was table seating in the basement of the coliseum. The food was amazing. The lights went out, and she came out dressed in a classic black gothy dress with sparkly bits. She was unbelievable. I had seen her several times in different cities, in tiny venues when she was covered in blood and shirtless, and with John Paul Jones from Led Zeppelin. This was just piano and smoke and lights but WOW! Her vocals were so penetrating it felt like a needle in my brain at one point. The audience cheered wildly when she played some classic Mexican ballads, but I recognized none of the songs until her second encore, which was “Gloomy Sunday” in both English and Spanish. What a way to end a great trip. Tomorrow is the museum, which I am excited about, and then home.

Day 5

We had a little time before our flight, but I simply had to go to the museum. It was totally worth it, the entire museum was dedicated to Mexican culture. I was smitten with the ancient obsidian labrets and jade ear wear. There were also lots of skulls and skeletons, some with precious stone tooth inlays. The statues were amazing.

Unfortunately, the gold jewelry was lacking (check out the exhibit at the Met in NYC for that). As a collector and a crafts person/jeweler, I respect and love jewelry that was made before lasers and electricity, it looks and feels more unique and natural. With such an amazing collection, the museum was a tribute to the people and culture of Mexico, and you could feel it. After seeing so many Quetzacoatls I was determined to get a tattoo of one eventually. We quickly collected our belongings, said goodbye to our amazing driver Oscar, and flew home.

I salute the Texas airport staff. The cluster fuck that was at their airport did not deter them from getting us on our connecting flight home. Getting home felt as good as it always does, and I quickly zipped out to get us some burritos while we settled back into our routines with our five fat bad cats. One day we will return to Mexico City, and hopefully for a longer stay, for I feel we barely explored the magic of this city and country and what it has to offer.